Tuesday, August 01, 2006

Nesting in Jaipur

Living in Jaipur and my perceptions here remind me of orientalist writings of foreign adventurers in British India- where Maharajahs fought battles and Hindoo warriors ruled the land.
Elephants and camels walking across the streets like they own the place, women in brightly coloured sarees resplendent with jewellery at even to the visit to the grocery store,Tall and handsome men with their regal way of talking in Hindi and saying “Namaste” every time they see you.How quaint!

The city is a treat to the eye- from the beautifully adorned walls of houses and bridges, to the sudden glimpse of a palace in the middle of water, to a pearly white temple and a fort on top of a rocky hill. Absolutely charming!

Setting up shop here has been interesting to say the very least and Im confronted by realities that I know so little about all the time. For example – when I was trying to find a house for myself here, speaking to a landlord he asks me in Hindi, “Which caste do you come from?”
I say, tell him Im from Kerala, to which he seems completely blank. So I say again in Hindi- “Im a Madrasi ( meaning from Madras-a place quite geographically removed from where I truly hail from,but, relatively close enough to put my self on his geographical radar).
So he seems to have a sudden flicker of recognition in his eyes and says; “Ah yes, but I mean which caste?” My team mate from these parts tells me- “You know, Sneha- Brahmin, Kshatriya…etc, etc”
I am a little dumbfounded but nevertheless respond recollecting some childhood grandmother stories and said, “Kshatriya”. To which, the broker seems ecstatic and says with a beaming smile on his face, “Ah Kshatriya. Just like the Rajputs.You are welcome here”
For a second, Im one of them, and it seems like all doors of landlords will open doors for me as I am (slightly removed) from their noble warrior clan.

Living in Mumbai city, terms like caste are so obsolete and ancient- one of those many things that we study in Sociology in great details as some form of ancient religious story of society originating from different parts of a god’s anatomy.
It then turns out that since Im a non- vegetarian, the other half of the city- the “marwari” community would prefer to lock me out without a key considering me unclean and impure!

Of course I knew things were like this and a large part of Indian society lives under the caste system, but in a faraway sense, now here I am living in an India that is “faraway” to my own mind.

Anyway, property issues are resolved now and Im settled into lovely appartment in the heart of the city and, I almost forgot to mention, theres a beauty parlour just below the building! Hehe

Do come and visit!

6 comments:

eXPerience called L!FE said...

hey..i am a veggie, am i invited (for some food)..cooked by you or your flat mate?

eXPerience called L!FE said...

hey..i am a veggie, am i invited (for some food)..cooked by you or your flat mate?

SnehaM said...

For sure!!Anytime dude

chitgo said...

invitation accepted:)

Unknown said...

CD CD remember that trip through the agra streets shopping for the vessels. remember two killos of steel plates and glasses and spoons!!!
the dupattas completely covering our heard like shy virgin indian girls :)
had to think of being madrasi then :)

Anonymous said...

coming soon, meantime, keep cool a.k.a thanata poocha - plox